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the 'black and white TV' of  cycle computers ?

not exactly an ‘SRM’ — more the ‘black and white TV’ of cycle computers..

Heavy, bulky, and not very accurate were my first impressions from this recent find, but perhaps in the 1980s it was state of the art ? The device runs on 2 x AA batteries ( which were thankfully not too corrosive to have destroyed it – despite it having being unused for over 10 years ).

cateye velo & road king ( new version ! )

cateye velo & road king ( preview of new version ! )

The CC-1000 lacks a clock display, though it does have a stopwatch function. There is an SCN setting that cycles through all the displays – far too quickly for me – plus ODO, DST, SPD, Time, AVS & MXS readings. Speed is indicated by an LCD bar graph at the top of the display just below the coloured speed line, as well as numerically when set on the ‘SPD’ setting. LCD icons appear above each function’s abbreviation to indicate which display is operating.

rear of unit

rear of unit

In use, the speedo’s response is very slow, and somewhat pessimistic on speed and distance – compared with my modern computers. The sender is a ring attached at 3 points to the front wheel spokes, with different screw holes supplied for 36 spoke and 28 spoke wheels.

computer ring and sensor

computer ring and sensor

The 3 buttons are ‘MODE’ “RESET” and “START/STOP”. An adjuster on the back has presets for 20, 22, 24, 26, 27 and 28 inch wheels ( no 700c ! ). According to Velobase it came with an adjusting tool for the wheel size presets, and a carry pouch !

the wheel size adjuster

the wheel size adjuster

I find the stopwatch function useful for trip times, but really, the best use of this classic computer is to make an 80s rebuild like my 59cm Road King look and feel a little more period authentic ! More about this bike later ..

road king 'semi-tourist'

road king ‘semi-tourist’

Happy Re-cycling !

Novocastrians, don’t forget the Spring Ride this Sunday commencing from Nobbys. A very safe and easy route followed by breakfast . Check out “Bicycles in Newcastle” – ( see blogroll right hand side ) for details.

This little red bike won’t be ready in time though, it’s a Wooly’s Wheels mixte ( apparently there is still a Wooly’s Wheels bike shop in Paddington ). It was a very cheap buy that I considered worth the price just for the anodised alloy 27″ Araya rims, the Suzue “sealed tech” hubs in good nick, the 52/36T “Custom” compact chainset and long cage Shimano rear derailleur. I will use them to convert one of my other bikes to a ‘semi-tourer’ and fit a simpler gear to this one.

The KKT pro vic II pedals will be worth servicing too. The chain set has a fixed big ring, so it isn’t great, but it looks reasonably light .

56cm seat tube but short head tube means smaller riders than i will fit well

56cm seat tube but short head tube means a long stem or forward lean…

The tubing is Tange 5 – which is a plain gauge  (PG)  Cr-Mo by the looks of it. At least it has 100mm wide fork dropouts though the rear are 126mm not 130mm.

seamless cromo ... not butted

seamless cromo … not butted

still the address ?

still the address ?

also some nice kkt pro vic II alloy pedals in good condition

 some nice kkt pro vic II alloy pedals in good serviceable condition

a reasonable and  practical compact 52/36T chain set

a reasonable and practical compact 52/36T chain set

See you Newcastle folk on Sunday !

 

speedwell rebuild. swansea

speedwell rebuild. swansea

Being someome who loves to photograph bicycles, I often ride around looking for interesting backdrops while imagining how my bike will look in front of them. This doesn’t always do wonders for my point to point times – but who’s counting anyway ?

road chief - swansea

tunnel lighting, road chief – swansea

Graffiti sometimes catches the eye, but doesn’t always make for a good bike photo because it can compete strongly for attention and  lead that eye on a merry journey away from the bike.

this one is a bit lost - speedwell popular, swansea

this one is a bit messy and lost – speedwell popular, swansea

Sometimes this can work well as long as you aren’t trying to show the bike’s details. The overall impression could be one of the bicycle being at one with the urban lifestyle, as of course it is …

where's the bike ? - repco traveller

where’s the bike ? – repco traveller

Graffiti varies in its intensity  and the simpler or more calm varieties with larger flat areas will sometimes work quite well to complement detail and add interest to the picture.

shogun samurai

shogun samurai

It can help to re-position the bike a few times checking that areas of similar tone and colour aren’t super imposed and the details lost ( a good idea for bike photography in general ).

I try but don’t always find time.

malvern star L.A.84 - newcastle

malvern star L.A.84 – newcastle

If you have the time, also try re-positioning  the bike to see how merging the  rhythm and lines of the bike and the graffiti can enhance the photo.

grandfather's speedwell popular - belmont

grandfather’s speedwell popular – belmont

Rules in photography are only guidelines that may beg to be broken.

at marks point

at marks point

Unfortunately I have no photographs or precise memories of how this bike originally looked. That’s not a bad thing as it allows me some free rein, and I’m not averse to modernising components to make it a better ride, unlike my blue Speedwell that I want to keep fairly original. I might mention that  ( in near faithful ‘Grandfather’s axe’ fashion ) only the steel frame itself – without the paintwork – is really original.

e-thirteen lg1+ pedals

e-thirteen lg1+ pedals

These flat pedals have good grip thanks to the many threaded studs, though I think I prefer the feel of Speedplay Drilliums. To me, the white finish suits this bike though some may see them as garish. It seems they run on bushes rather than ball bearings and have spin adjustability  for your personal pedalling preference.

some basic stencils

some basic stencils

I cut these stencils with a craft knife based on the blue bike’s stencilled lettering. It was hard to get a clean finish – if the foil is too thin it won’t stay put when you curve it around the tubes. If too thick, it is hard to cut cleanly. Nevertheless a little later repainting of the  area around it should solve the overspray and run problems. I stuck the fiddly bits down with tiny spots of blu-tack before spraying.

I took a lot of liberty with the seat tube decoration, making it a ‘modernised’  and simplified version, using the same letter “S” and some gold lines and trim with red and indian red.

after some tidying up

after some tidying up

The head tube was infilled with Indian Red enamel by hand ( without being too particular ), and I left some black around the home-made head badge to add visual depth. This head tube colour infill makes a big visual improvement over the previous all black finish.

infill headset

infill headset & rework lining

I accentuated the gold hand lining as well. I find that it’s best to use a slightly thinned gold enamel with a good quality pointed artist’s brush and to try for a continuous and confident brush stroke. A turps-y rag will wipe off mistakes.

getting close now

getting close now

It’s the best I think I can do without repainting all one colour, though I am still open to more  lightbulb moments regarding the decoration …

imperial narrow, with cut-out

imperial narrow, with cut-out & laces

From my humble collection of Brooks saddles I decided to use the B17 Imperial narrow – so far, so good. The B17 narrow is becoming a favourite saddle of mine on bikes with drop bars. I’m not yet certain if the cut-away is of benefit over the standard B17 narrow, but it’s comfortable anyway.

kt leather bar tape

kt leather bar tape & soma flares

The Soma Road Flares are a rather bling-y kind of safety feature. Just don’t drop the bike or lean it on a wall, and make sure they can’t hit the top tube on full lock … any bars with rear facing ends should be fine – albatross, gull-wing, drop, porteur etc. I guess they would also work as bar end caps using lock-on grips on upright bars, as well as with the bar tape used here.

soma road flare

soma road flare – what bling !

constant or flicker on AAA batteries

constant or flicker on AAA batteries

The switches underneath are hard to locate ( hence unobtrusive ). AAA batteries are a good idea. The flares fit firmly yet are easy to remove. The little top windows are a nice touch.

another view

another view

I didn’t really want reproduction decals on this, so why not D.I.Y. ? It’s fun, if a little time consuming, and a pleasant task in the winter sun. Decorating it was enjoyable, but best of all is taking it for a cruise-y ride on a sunny-cool winter morning off  …

at blacksmiths

mangroves at blacksmiths

Remember though, once any bike is re-painted you will have to wait a long time for that nice patina to re-develop.

Happy Re-cycling !

 

The ‘grey ghost’ is looking like a pretty quick project, as much of it is in good order. The front wheel was given a slight true and new grease and is running well. These 80s Araya rims could have been really good on the Cecil Walker, but I don’t want to go there for a while, and this one is worth keeping (fairly) original …

Malvern Star could have made this a brilliant bike by using cast dropouts, a better alloy chainset and derailleurs, down tube shifters, and the same brake levers sans the suicide bits. That’s all it would have taken, but there you go … I like it anyway.

the classy SR laprade seat post is worth putting a decent saddle on

the classy SR laprade seat post is worth putting a decent saddle on

I’ve always wanted a slightly sporty 3-speed, which was what the Sportstar was planned to be, and in lieu of the bent rear axle I’ve removed the rim from the rear and laced it to a Nexus 3 coaster hub. This internal geared hub is heavy-ish, but I wonder if it’s really any heavier than the derailleur hub and cluster plus the rear brake and lever & calliper plus the front and rear mechs and associated hardware, and the extra weight of the double chainwheel ?

Probably not much, and certainly not as heavy as the 7, 8 or 11 speed Nexus/Alfine versions.

nexus inter-3 coaster

nexus inter-3 coaster

You have to be careful with the 3-speed coaster though, as it’s easy to lock it up accidentally if you unthinkingly back pedal, but like everything ‘new bikey’ one gets used to it fairly quickly.

A coaster brake is clumsy with foot retention systems so I generally use flat pedals, in this case the brilliant Speedplay Drilliums.

drillium !

drillium !

With a coaster there is also the often added routine of rotating the cranks to the correct o’clock before mounting the bike !

For a derailleur 10-speed to gear-hub conversion the newer internal geared hubs are ideal as they are generally around 120mm width and that means less worry about spacers. 10 speed frames are generally 120 (older) or 126mm wide.

For older coaster hub single speed frames you are better off using an older hub like the 70s/80s Sturmey-Archer AW or Shimano 3S, because these are the same 110mm width and don’t require widening of the frame.

I need to keep the front brake, and in order not to be too asymmetric I think the drop bars may have to go, but I’m still thinking. They really do suit this frame. A cross top lever could be useful if it fits, otherwise it’s Tange moustache bars from Project Sportstar.
Because the Nexus 3 revo-shifter needs a long straight section of bar I guess it’s to be the Tange, unless I can figure out a different shifter system. These revo-shifters are a lot more fragile and fiddly than the old 3-speed triggers as well.

generally, i prefer trigger shifters...

generally, i prefer trigger shifters…

This bike is another example why the serious recyclist needs to be able to build and true wheels – it just wouldn’t be worth it to pay someone else for all this !

So many old bikes need wheel work, as that’s often the reason they were abandoned in the first place. The rear wheel gave me some problems and took a long time to straighten, perhaps because the rim isn’t as stiff as modern ones. Old single wall alloy rims are the hardest ones to re-lace, in my limited experience anyway.

The conversion to a single chainring means that the crank axle probably wasn’t the correct length for a straight chain line so a little measuring is required. I find that most likely a 107mm or maybe 110mm bottom bracket will do the job.

Most current square taper bottom brackets are sealed, no maintenance and non-repairable, though they only cost around $20 to $25. I have successfully used models from Miche, Genetic, and Gist (italy), in standard JIS square taper for single speed and hub gear conversions. In this case ( after measuring the BB and hub ) it’s a Genetic 110.5 mm and lines the chainwheel up quite well with the offset 22T Nexus cog.

a new genetic 110.5mm JIS bottom bracket

a new genetic 110.5mm JIS bottom bracket

I recycled my newish Token TK2051 165mm chainset, it’s nice and light and the black ring vaguely matches the original ‘look’.

Gearing ( i.e. second ) is 48x22T. Unfortunately 3-speeds have unavoidably large gaps between the ratios compared with a derailleur system and so it’s all about compromises. If second is too high, then third becomes little used so I try to make second just high enough to work OK on level road but able to pull up a moderate incline too. Perhaps a 21T would be sufficient although the solid saddle and shortish 165mm cranks mean that spinning fast is relatively easy compared with some other of my bikes. I won’t change the gearing yet without a fair amount of riding first, to suss it all out …

now pretty much completed

now pretty much completed

I lifted the Velo Orange hammered guards from the pink mixte ( toe overlap on that one ) and borrowed the Nexus-fitting Brooks grips from my Gazelle. The front brake lever now operates from the left side so as not to foul the shifter – and to make the cables look more symmetrical. I used the brazed on brake loops on the top tube to hold the gear cable in place, as of course there’s no need for the rear calliper now. The Bontrager Select K 27″ tyres used to grace Cecil W. before his conversion to 700C. I’m pretty happy with the look and concept so far.

the grey ghost in fernleigh tunnel

the grey ghost in fernleigh tunnel

Steering is quite quick and the bike accelerates and climbs well for an old school ride. As geared, it’s certainly better equipped for the various moderate inclines on the Fernleigh Track than the Duo-matic 2-speed hubs, allowing easy pedalling pretty much everywhere, though the ride is never as finely tuneable for ‘cadence vs.gradients’ as a derailleur system, of course.

See Ya !

 

 

as it was

as it was

I’ve not been leaving well enough alone in the perfecting of the imperfections of some of my bikes – this one is my grandfather’s ( and my ) old Speedwell.

home of my youth

home of my youth

Having decided to approach ever so slightly closer toward originality, I’ve used the forks from the Malvern two star, and its mudguards to aid the cause. Both these bikes have non-original paintwork so I can feel okay about playing around with them.

The Speedwell frame is long and low with a 60cm top tube and a 56cm seat tube so it looks smaller than it really is if you judge it by the head tube length. The previous chromed forks were bodged a bit to fit the short head tube and I decided to correct this by using the Malvern star forks and a new head set.

campag record head set and home made headbadge

campag record head set and home made headbadge – pedals are temporary – i think !

The headset is a Campagnolo Record which has an ISO 26.4mm crown race. This was too small for the flange on the fork steerer but a JiS 27.2mm was too big – I had to gently file away the flange ’til the Campag fitted …

The wheels are the same, Weinmann alloy rims with a Quando front hub and generic coaster rear. I had toyed with the idea of going to 3-speed but canned it as I like the simplicity of single speed and that was its original format. There is a real aesthetic purity in a bike with no cables and I’m sure that’s a big part of the appeal of track bikes too.

I’ve used a set of SR “Road Champion” bars which are waiting anxiously for some luxurious bar tape. You’ll notice the tall head stem with very short extension – this is so I can sit up like a roadster rider on the tops, yet still get out of the wind more in the drops without leaning too low on these deep bars. The other nice thing about this type of stem is the ‘vintage’ appearance it lends.

With no cables it’s very easy to swap to and fro with the gull wing bars I was using before – just one allen key !

The bottom bracket is new, a Genetic 107mm that seems to work well chain line- wise with the narrow coaster hub. The cheap and heavy non-original steel cranks have gone, replaced by a Charge Rotisserie 42T ( really an FSA, I think ), nice and light and classy looking in a ‘modern but traditional’ kind of way … I changed the rear cog to a Nexus 19T ( the old set up was 40x18T ). It’s a little low geared but that’s how I like single speeds. The small ring doesn’t quite have the old-fashioned look though.

A new micro-adjust alloy seat post ( 26.4 mm ), a B17 flyer saddle and a new chain tensioner complete the many changes. There are still some details of the finish to tidy up – I added a little Indian Red colour to the seat tube and chainguard to tie the look together with the new fork and guards – now I wonder if it’s worth getting some repro. Speedwell decals ?

Old frames like this tend to ride well, though they can be a bit heavy and this one does, and is, too – but because of the many alloy bits and the simplicity, the weight isn’t bad. Steering is only a little slow but the trade off is good stability. The 27″ tyres and alloy wheels mean it’s quicker steering than the original blue Speedwell 28″ in the header shot.

DSC_0623

I’ll show some more pics when it’s completed.

Happy Re-Cycling !

 

 

the L.A. 84

the L.A. 84

 

The Malvern Star L.A. 84 was released to commemorate those Olympics, but is a far cry from what the Olympians would have been riding. Still, it’s a step up from the Sportstar  that I was in the process of renovating and so has jumped the proverbial recyclist’s queue … the frame is nice and high, with a 59cm seat tube and a relatively short 56cm top tube.

cro-mo go slow...

cro-mo go slow…

The frame is indicated as being double butted Chrome-Moly steel, and I at least think the 3 main tubes are, as they have that high ‘ting’ sound when tapped. Other nice features are 27″ Araya alloy rims on decent Shimano hubs ( though the back axle was found to be mysteriously bent ), SR Laprade fluted alloy post 26.6mm, SR alloy stem and SR “Road Champion” alloy bars with Cinelli tape.

fluted SR post

fluted SR post

The brakes are Dia Compe ‘500’ side pull callipers. Shimano Z series gear components are reasonable too, with a mid length rear derailleur to cope with the 32T largest cog and 12 friction shifted gears via stem shifters. A Tange Seiki headset looks to be in decent condition. There is a single plastic star on the head tube in typical Malvern Star fashion.

steering detail

SR steering detail

The ordinary parts include an alloy crank / steel ring combination 52/40T Takagi chainset and a basic PVC covered plastic saddle. Also the rear dropouts are only pressed steel 126mm and the front are 95mm wide. Brake levers are those annoying Dia Compes with no gel hoods and suicide levers … ah well.

note the missing bolts !

note the missing bolts !

It’s a good starting point, and I would like to keep the old parts aside just in case I want to build it back as fully original.

rear mech

rear mech

I can’t understand how the axle got so bent when the derailleur appears straight – the dropout needed straightening too.

kkt alloy pedals

kkt alloy pedals

These KKT pedals are exceptionally light – one is tight and has some rust under the black end cap – hopefully it’s not terminal.

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