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Archive for the ‘decorating your bike’ Category

caprice, with new bars and stem

caprice, with new bars and stem

Due to the complete lack of carrying capacity on my wife’s refurbished Raleigh Caprice, I was asked to get a front basket for it. The Rixen Kaul seemed well made and reasonably priced, with a clever quick release stem fitting – but Oh ! – what an ugly chunk of black plastic that “Klickfix” stem bracket is !

Otherwise very practical, the bracket as it comes is an unsuitable style for a classic bike such as this.

the dreaded bracket

the dreaded bracket

Wicker baskets can be a bit of a cliche these days, I know, but they are also functional and useful things too.

Anyway, thinking there are ways and means, I decided to give it the twined treatment to visually break up the enormous black lump. First step was to wrap the arms in sticky double sided tape. This doesn’t have to be perfect as it only serves to hold the twine in place for shellacking.

twine and sticky

twine and sticky

There are two methods I use to fix the ends of the twine, one is to start the wrap so that the first length of twine goes onto the tape to lie perpendicular under the later windings of twine  – you can’t do this at the end of your string, of course !

in tis case i went from the ends to the centre

in this case i went from the ends to the centre

So in that case I will either wedge the twine tightly within the last turns of itself ( though the sticky can often ‘let go’ when wet shellacking ) or more usually, I use a tiny drop of cyanoacrylate (superglue) to fix it in place.

Once that’s done, I check that the twine windings ( twinedings ?! ) are all tight and fairly close together and, if not, I squeeze them together or may even rewind them. Then I “first coat”  them with shellac, allow to dry and repeat till satisfied with the colour.

first coat

first coat

Amber shellac is a good match for the honey coloured saddle on this bike, which now has its bars changed from riser to swept back, requiring a ‘new-old’ stem to take them, and new cork grips were added, these changes made to improve hand comfort.

the finished bracket installed

the finished bracket installed

I would note that with a decent classic bike like this, I carefully keep the old parts together so that it may be returned to original later on.

You’re never going to get a perfect appearance with a big bracket such as this, but I think it’s a definite visual improvement. The twine could be made to cover more but there would always be some plastic showing.

The job would then be much more messy and less enjoyable, also  giving a ‘forced’ look to things .

That red quick release button is clashing-ly bright. It would look much better on a red bike.

all done !

all done !

The wicker basket appears well made and strong, though the metal support ring woven into it is visually somewhat heavy-handed. It also sits quite high, potentially obscuring the ground view directly in front. There are handlebar and head tube bracket options if  these would be more appropriate to your bike.

it's quite large

Picnic ready !

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a small detail ..

a small detail ..

Once upon a time long ago, ( when I didn’t know better ) I repainted my original old Speedwell bike that had become very rusty from living near the sea. To help do this I removed the “S” insignia head badge so I could paint underneath it, but sadly my efforts at reaffixing it were a failure and it was lost on the road somewhere in my misspent youth …

the ladies' popular

the ladies’ popular

Since then I’ve missed having it there and the steering head has looked kind of empty after refurbishing “old faithful” for the umpteenth time. So, just for fun, I tried a cheap and cheerful solution, and I don’t mean trawling ebay for an obscure bike badge. I had a roll of thin Aldi aluminium tape on hand plus some strong double sided sticky that I use for shellacking ( btw, how come shellac doesn’t have a “k” in it ? ).

empty headed

empty headed

I took a pencil rubbing off my Speedwell ladies’ popular and transferred it by tracing to the aluminium, cutting out with an Olfa cutter and scissors. The final touch was to use a concave nail punch head and thickish gold paint to simulate the rivets.

Sure it’s only cheap embellishment, and professional restorers may chuckle, but it has at least  given back a bit of nostalgic identity to my old childhood bike and I don’t see the point in spending on Speedwell repro. decals when this bike is so non-original anyway.

the transfer

the transfer

The tape will need clear coating to help preserve it as it’s quite flimsy. The badge could be coated with amber shellac to give a bit of rustic visual warmth if so desired.

these punches are great for making painted dots

these concave punches are great for making painted dots

ta-daa

ta-daa … positioning is very critical though , this is a bit low

Actually all this experimenting started when I tried to make an original head badge for the “empty headed” generic Pink Mixte that I’m refurbishing. Using the same process I cut out a “PM” badge – coincidentally my initials also …

no more "turbo"

no more “turbo”

This frame will have the lugs lined and some more detailing and coating yet, but you get the idea….

Depending on your patience, this process could be used to DIY decorate other parts of your restored bike provided it’s not done in a vulnerable location where a scrape is likely.

Also, shiny soft aluminium pet food containers could be cut up and recycled in lieu of the alu tape. Thin copper craft sheets also come to mind for head badges.

Happy Decorating !

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hi-rise frame

 

 

A current side project of mine is reworking my old Giant Boulder 550 ’90s model MTB. This bike was found as a dumped frameset a couple of years ago and has become the bike that gets all the cast-off bits from my other ones as they are upgraded, as well as various new bits and salvaged old parts .

I overcame my partial dislike of mountain bikes by fitting different handlebars to it as flat bars are really hard on my wrists. I really feel that a swept back bar “holds”  the same way your wrists relax when held at your side.

Other than that MTBs can make fine all-rounders, though I only like old steel ones with horizontal top tubes ( what a snob, you say ! ).

Especially purple ones!

 

v.o. “belleville” bars

 

These narrow Velo Orange Belleville “no-rise” bars should work for me because the large (61cm) frame size means that I can keep the bars high enough relative to the seat, and the swept back grips keep me a little more upright. They also give the bike a sort of old-fashioned “sporty” look along with the high frame and “small” 26 inch wheels.

 

fat serfas tyres

 

Thinking about what I don’t have in my collection of bikes, I decided to give this one a really low bottom gear of 1:1 for when I feel the need to easily climb the steep local grades. So, on went a Sakae triple front ring from a salvaged Apollo (48/38/28) along with a 5-speed cluster and a recycled front derailleur.

A fifteen speed triple is enough for a wide range, and close ratios are not really necessary here.

 

this f.d. required some cable re-routing

original rear mech. and my roughly hand painted “pie plate”

 

The original 7-speed rear derailleur was stop-adjusted to fit the 5-speed cluster and a new friction front/indexed rear  Shimano stem shifter from Vintage Bicycle Rebuilds added ( I have developed a fondness for stem shifters via my Road King rebuild ). It’s a 6-speed click so the first click (top) is a “dummy”

I also had to re-fit a cantilever front brake as the v-brake wouldn’t clear the front guard – a fiddly job …

 

nitto dynamic stem, shimano index (R) and friction (F) shifters

 

The wheels are from another chuck-out, and the guards another again, and so there are at least 4 or 5 bikes contributing here !  The art of recycling …

 

i like the graphics on this model, but only the seat tube is cro-mo, i think !

 

It’s not really rideable properly yet, and definitely cosmetically unfinished, but hopefully gives an idea of what you can do to customise that unloved old wreck in your garage.

 

kinda stylish ?

 

If I have enough time, I would like to make a home-made wooden front rack for it … hang on, did I say enough time …. ?

I’m dreaming, aren’t I  ?

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The best thing about front baskets and racks is the way they allow you keep an eye on the load (or your valuables) while riding…

I know this isn’t a new product, but it’s a very useful one that I have found to be just the ticket for quick trips to the shops and small grocery items. The Portland Design Works (PDW) Takeout basket is cleverly shaped to use vertical space above it for storage, and that helps keep to it compact.

 

the bag…unclipped

The basket is in lightweight alloy and comes with its own bag and mountings. The water resistant roll-top bag is plain and functional, plastic lined and it won’t absorb  the condensation on cold items. The bag folds down and clips onto the basket when not in use, and when opened up is deceptively roomy – I fitted a 2 litre milk and a 2 litre juice side by side easily, with room on top for several lighter items.

 

“tiki-look” clips !

The bag top is held closed with velcro when in use and has a non-adjustable shoulder carry strap for shopping. The bag clips are designed to clip around the sides of the basket to secure it when empty, and when in use the top 2 clips can lock together along with the velcro to help secure the bag top.

 

on the move

 

The basket clamps onto your bars either side of the stem, and has an optional brace to stabilise it on the stem only if it’s a suitable shape – it worked well on the short offset stem of my Speedwell to prevent the load from slipping the basket down. There are clever slot-in sliding shims for 1″ (25.4mm-26mm) bars that push into the clamps (they fit up to 31.8mm bars without the shims).

the optional brace (included standard)

 

If you are thinking of getting one of these, bear in mind that it seems mainly designed for either flat bars or road bars ( between the drops ) – if you have gull wing, moustache, or similar swept back bars, it’s worth checking that their curves (and especially your gear and brake cables) don’t interfere with the basket. The basket fitted the gull wing bars on my old Speedwell OK, but I now have only one front brake cable on my bars to worry about. I don’t think that it would fit easily on a number of my other old bikes though, because of these cable issues, the same as with many standard front baskets.

there’s a 2 litre milk and a 2 litre juice in here …

The styling is able to blend in well with both old and new bikes although it does only seem to be made in the black colour – that’s it, unless you are keen to paint over it. It’s more “functional modern street” in appearance than either wire or wicker baskets, yet to me still has a bit of “nostalgic flair” about it. The attachment points may be a bit industrial looking, but they would need to be so in order to support the weight of the laden basket.

There are other ways you can modify or personalise this basket – firstly, by using a different bag – a small camera bag comes to mind here, or any small e.g. leather bag that fits into the basket.

on my 27″ speedwell diamond frame

 

Second, while the (faux?) wood front PDW logo panel is quite attractive, it would be easy to cut a piece of e.g. ply wood or sheet metal to a similar shape and put your own design or badge etc. on it. Just make sure it doesn’t intrude on the u-lock holder section if you want to use that feature. I used a name plate from an old Newcastle business that my grandfather used to work for :

my customised face plate … scrap wood and shellac

 

Thirdly there is a useful threaded attachment point on the lower left side for adding a light or other accessory.

All in all, this basket should fulfil 90 percent of my current carrying needs – it won’t help carry a pizza box home if that’s your bag, but any other take-away ( Australian for take-out ! ) should be fine, or a six-pack of bottles. Capacity is rated at 12lb / 5.4kg. Not cheap, but worth the money I reckon…

 

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no identifying features

Here are two of my vintage/classic bike tail lights, both “unswitched” – the first is unbranded, made of a thermosetting plastic that looks a bit like black bakelite. I believe it was Australian made but I’m not certain. It is about as simple as you can get, relying on screwing in the cap to make contact between the bulb and “D” cell battery via copper tracks that mate at a certain point of  rotation. This light is to be fitted to my old speedwell bike, and has polished up nicely with metal polishing paste on all external parts.

disassembled

bulb and contacts

the neat bracket is obviously designed for a seat stay

on my speedwell diamond frame

The second is the Eveready, made in the UK, of aluminium. This one is slightly more robust in build and the lens doubles as a rear reflector. I may be fitting it to my loop frame Speedwell when it is finished – it needs a tidy-up, as the alloy has oxidised in places.

it’s working

the rubber washer prevents shorting the battery on the spring

the reflector/lens

The main disadvantage with both these lights is that the large battery tends to rattle around when the light is off and may also turn on at times because of this. Some tweaking with rubber washers should help with this issue. Alternatively, I can remove the battery till needed as these bikes won’t get a lot of night use.

The “D” cells back then must have been mostly insulated on the top (+ve) terminal as the holding spring will short out the modern “D” cells via the terminal plate, unless this part is insulated.

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Hmm, what to do when your recycled old commuter doesn’t have fittings for a bidon cage?

Well, I found this Tioga brand handlebar mounted one in a local bike shop (LBS) – but in black… anyway, I bought it .

I was hoping for plain alloy to match the road king’s other shiny fittings and brown tones…also, on its first use the bottle bounced out on a big bump and nearly smashed due to the loose fit and springiness in this cage.

My solution was to twine it, not that it was a neat or easy job, but here goes :

as it was – black and springy

taped, twined and starting to shellac

ta daa! — rough’n'ready damping

at last – a bottle in front of me that stays put

The job was done with two single pieces of twine, and the hardest part was to finish the winding so that the twine ends don’t unravel off the double sided tape when first wet with shellac, and also to negotiate the many changes in radius of the curved shape without leaving gaps…

I cheated somewhat by clamping the ends with a bulldog clip after shellacking, then recoating gently when dry, and finally putting a spot of clear epoxy on it, just in case!

I feel that if I did another of these I could improve on this one, but am generally happy with the result. It matches the twined kickstand fairly well.

Perhaps it’s otherwise easier to twine the bottle?

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as it was - abandoned

 

Having just added some new MKS Sylvan touring pedals and a new brass bell to the Road King, I may have to agree that it’s becoming somewhat like Ted Bullpit’s Holden Kingswood (as suggested by Steven Fleming of Cycle-Space recently). For those unfamiliar with the old Australian TV sitcom “Kingswood Country”, it featured a very basic model Aussie car that was polished, accessorised, and worshipped to an obsessive level as a suburban icon.

 

smoooth! --- mks sylvan

 

It’s true that the Road King began life as a humdrum ten speed Woolworths bike, made in Taiwan in 1984. Yet when I look at it now I think of it as a practical long distance semi-upright occasional commuter (c.25kms one way for me) that is relatively fast, non-lycra and fun, yet can carry a reasonable amount of luggage and still stump up as a kind of off-beat classic with clean, straight lines.

 

after the rain

 

Excluding my own labour and the expensive Li-ion headlight (that I can use on other bikes as well), this bike has cost me less than $AUD400 to get to this stage – about the price of a cheaply made entry level bike shop “broken-backed” looking hybrid beginning with “G”, that doesn’t even have proper mudguards let alone a Brooks saddle…

 

not the road king !! - i just polished the brass bell ... teehee

 

A young skater on Fernleigh Track  recently commented “Nice bike – is it new?”

 

in passing..

 

1984 wasn’t the end of the world … and I haven’t finished yet!

 

at swansea yesterday

and yes, the birds are real !

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refitting cranks

So far, this has been one of the easiest restorations I’ve done, thanks to the bike  having been kept in relatively good condition. In only a few hours today, I had the majority of work finished. It still needs some parts, like a new chain – as the old one is too worn. The saddle will go too, as it is immediately uncomfortable. Also new grips, new tyres, and some mudguards will need to be sourced. Despite the colour being about as subtle as a coke can, I still like it.

Here is the general idea of how it will look, disregarding the seat and grips as they will be changed :

the general idea ... with removable basket

Here also are some ideas for decorative details that don’t cost much, yet can smarten up any old bike like this one :

i infilled the gear lever indents with matching colour

infilled front derailleur logo and chainwheel bolts with colour

same with rear derailleur

lug lining

replaced clunky old steel stand with a light alloy twined one

I should go into production with these stands – lol …

The gear levers can’t really be separated so I’ve decided to leave it a 10 speed, with a “normal” ring and a “downhill” ring – i.e. the opposite of a “granny” ring!

another view with an animated shadow ...

So, it’s a sort of “10 speed fixie” then, if you get my oxymoron.

More details to follow…

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more tools of trade ..

Had a fool around lining lugs while the frame is bare, with some gold enamel  paint, turps, a rag and fine brushes. I’m not an expert at this but it is fun, and this frame was a little plain anyway …

rah rah road king ...

There’s a knack to it, and that would improve with practice. I found that the gold dries quickly so turps is useful for thinning when applying paint and also for removing mistakes.

BB lugs

They’re a bit rough close up, but then so is the lining on my Gazelle’s lugs!

all good fun

Got nice lugs?  You might as well flaunt them …

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The mainly alloy stand, as purchased.

Here is a budget adjustable kick stand that I have decorated for a friend’s older bike that didn’t have one. The stand is the same type that I used on the restored Malvern Star bike featured earlier – it’s basic, but reasonable, for the $13 that it cost at a department store, provided that it is used on a firm surface and the bike is of moderate weight. I prefer these stands to the ones where you have to cut the one piece alloy leg to length, as you can’t make a mistake with this one !

Twined and partially shellacked, primer on top plate and bolt.

The reason I decorated it this way is simply because I thought it looked too plain and shiny for an older bike. The method is to tape the leg section with double sided sticky tape, wrap it tightly with white twine and give it several coats of amber shellac until satisfied with the colour. The steel top plate and bolt were painted to blend in with the red bike that will be wearing it.

The finished stand.

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