This is the rear wheel from my Jack Walsh step through – and while coaster hubs are all very similar inside, different brands are not exactly the same. The more of these I overhaul, the quicker and easier they become, and this one seems quite well designed. This hub should also be a sharp stopper, as it’s a Japanese ’80s (?) model. It has three smaller brake shoes unlike some other types that have only two larger ones.
Here’s the exploded view, and while the hub disassembles further, I will leave it as is and force clean and grease the brake arm side bearings in situ to save some time – perhaps not best practice, but this hub was quite clean inside. As usual the little outside driver bearing was the driest, with the inner races still being reasonably greasy.
I’m not sure whether teflon grease is the best option for a brake hub, but it seemed OK on previous hubs I’ve done. This grease was purchased at an auto store as you get more for less than at the bike shops, I’m sorry to say.
The small shoes stuck to the grease on the expander wedge, then I greased over them and also all over the inner hub surfaces. This made for an easy re-assembly, pushing in from underneath the brake arm side while holding the shoes with one hand, after which the driver screw goes in from the drive side to mate with the screw thread inside the expander drum.
After that, the little outer axle bearing and its cone and locknut go on the drive side axle, followed by a dust cover ring, the splined cog and its snap ring and you’re done – bar the cone adjustment – and that may need re-doing after fitting to the bike and/or riding.
Next job is to true the wheel and tighten the loose spokes…