The last day of the spring heatwave and I’m out early, spinning on the Shogun, before the worst of the furnace.
It’s still chuck out season here, but there’s slim pickings so far. Yet something made me double back, and in the last dead end of the last street, with council pickup trucks circling ominously, I spotted this bike.
a graceful curve – if one ignores the lever
Always a sucker for an old loop frame I did the time trial thing back to the van and, dripping with perspiration, returned to the scene.
no-name steel centrepull brake
It was still there !
original bayliss-wiley hub with oil port
Sadly, it has been repainted and covered with cheap looking “Belmont” decals, so I may never know what it was. It is a typical old Aussie bike with 28″ ( that’s the 642mm version } 700A wheels.
While the front wheel is 32H the rear is a 36H, rather than the typical 40H, and sports a Shimano coaster brake. The rims and other chrome have been silver over-painted.
mid 70s shimano coaster
The frame looks pre-1950s to me and I wondered if the wheels were updated later, yet the front hub sports an oil port, and the locking flanges match the fork perfectly.
this is an obvious addition – as there’s no hole in the bridge !
I’m certain that both the hand brakes are late additions, and of course the plastic saddle and the chromed fenders are too.
In fact, I’m beginning to think that the old bike was refurbished around the mid 1970s and given a new back wheel.
The front hub is a Bayliss-Wiley – probably original – and there is paint on the rim underneath the silver that is not present on the rear.
never seen one of these before – in aluminium too ! i’ve no idea if it’s original ..
looks like a williams, but with no markings …
Other interesting features include a patterned cut away aluminium ( ! ) chain guard, the unusual horizontal rear drop outs, the elegantly curved handlebars with their dainty short cut-off and stubby green Italian plastic grips. The seat stays are bolted to the drop-outs but fixed to the seat tube. I have seen similar drop-outs on 1930s bikes and I’m now thinking that this frame may be the oldest one in my collection.
old style loose ball brampton headset
As a project it will be a lot of hard work, but could make a great looking ride once I lose that horrid blue house-paint colour !
Already I’ve had to drill out the frozen cotter pins and the fixed bottom bracket cup ain’t goin’ nowhere either… but it does look to be in good shape at least.
vintage drop outs, these – and i assume that’s pet hair on the chain !
Thinking, thinking …
See Ya !
It looks absolutely gorgeous! I’m looking forward to seeing it once you have a chance to restore it.
Thanks Katie, I’m a bit excited about it myself !
issue with the one I was working on a while ago – repainted, with bits changed over the years, & I’ve found it impossible to date or name (Still not finished…might have to get back to it…!). The other one I have is an old Super Eliott – it’s got the big “E” on the fork tube so i.d. on that one is easy!
I’m sure you’ll do it justice mate!
Thanks Mitch – the detective in me is still working on it !
Sorry Peter – not sure what happened there – seem to have lost the first part of my reply! First bit was something like ” Great find mate-I recon the old loop frames are wonderful! I have a similar issue with one….etc….”
Cheers mate!
Nice find with interesting details and worth some effort. No loop frames in my garage I’m afraid.
It’s a better quality frame than my old Speedwells with their pressed drop-outs, I’m quite impressed with it the more I look.
Great find. Love the chain guard 🙂
Do you ever apply heat to the bb components to loosen them off?
Regards
Patrick
Hi Patrick, I find the heat of the drill will often loosen the pins enough without going too far in – I have to be careful with it though ! I tried soaking in releasing agent first on this one – no go, it was super stubborn.
I would like a good cotter pin press if I could find one.
Hi Peter
Re the cotter pin press – I have seen photos of people using a hefty G clamp, and a steel tube or socket. I have not tried that method yet, but it looks to be successful.
Re applying heat – I was thinking that the stubborn bb could do with some.
Regards
Patrick
Thanks, Patrick … yes, good idea because the fixed cup only has pin-holes and no spanner flats, so I probably can’t use my Cyclus tool. i will give it a try. I may also try the G-clamp trick next time, on the pins.
Cheers,
Peter
Another thought re the bb cup, chainring side.
Once you have the left side off, you could fit a bolt through the right cup. Fit a nut to that bolt, and tighten. The larger the bolt you can fit, the better.
As that cup is left hand thread, and the bolt is rht, tightening the bolt may get the cup loose.
If it’s the left side you are having problems with, and the cup has only pin holes. You could try grinding flats into the cup. I use a 125mm cutting wheel. It’s very quick work. But!! Will need a steady hand. 😉
Hi Patrick,
I think the bolt idea is worth a go – it’s the drive side fixed cup that’s the problem. I don’t trust myself with a grinder, and would prefer to get it out undamaged as it’s not worn. I tried heating with a small butane torch with no result.
Thanks again for your input, I’ll update with how it goes.
Hi there, I found the exact same bike in hard rubbish yesterday with all of the original parts, leather seat , packrack etc. I am also trying to find out which era it came from and what type of bike it is. Have you had any luck with finding more information on the bike? I would love to restore this one but am unsure whether it would be more valuable if I kept it’s petina.. I’m not sure how to share a photo on this site but would be able to give you a fair idea of what the original parts on your bike are.
Hi Sean,
I still have no idea what this frame is though I’ve completely dismantled it. In terms of yours, I would be surprised if they are exactly the same but I guess it’s possible. If the bike has the original paint or a worthwhile patina I would recommend leaving it that way. The only old bikes I ever re-paint are ones that have already been painted and that have the original finish destroyed ( like this one ).
I’m not sure how you post a photo here, sorry Sean, I’m a bit low tech myself..
Anyone interested in an original Bell Conqueror ladies bike? Farm fresh and dusty….It’s got a leather seat as well.
I also have an old speedwell, never posted before. Can someone help me?
What sort of help do you need ?
I found an old Bell bike and its too authentic to throw away. Does anyone do these ones up? I hate wasting history
Hi Justin, thanks for the reply. I have an old speedwell roadster special, ladies, with two straight bars and cool paint work.The frame is stamped B 84877, is this Aug 1948? I will post images when I work out how.
Sorry meant Peter.
Yep Peter is popular tonight. Don’t really understand how this site works yet but I think we have a common goal of restoration of history.
Hi CJ, Speedwell numbers are notoriously vague – you can try here :http://web.archive.org/web/20130410054827/http://bicyclehistory.com.au/Aust%20manuf%20articles.htm
but it’s not much to go on.
Hi Justin – a lot depends on where the bike is – you can try Retro Cycling Marketplace on Facebook to sell it. If you want to keep it you may have to become a re-cyclist and learn to DIY ! Just don’t throw it away !!
I don’t have nearly enough time to restore the bike so I put it on Ebay for auction for 99 cents if you want to take a look. It was never about the money….just the history. I’m sure a collector will pick it up. I’m in Newcastle by the way.
Hi Justin, I had a look and it’s in decent condition for it’s age. i might even put on a bid later, as it’s only several k’s away from me.
Cheers !
Hi Peter,
If you like it and think it’s worth doing up, come on over and pick it up, I don’t want any money for it. I will take it off Ebay.
I think it’s worth doing up for sure Justin – if you want to you can email me at – petermc67@live.com – rather than put your details on the site.