1935 Malvern Star, 28” Roadster – Part 2 :

An old 28” wheeled roadster that has been sitting around since its house paint was stripped, I’ve had a general idea of what I wanted to do with it, but haven’t got to do it ’til now. Painting is time consuming, yet the end result can be worth it, ( but for me, only if the original finish is all gone ).

rust-o-mod ..

Strictly speaking, it isn’t a 2-star, as the ‘star’ series didn’t start officially until 1939, but it’s easy to get into the habit of calling it that..

a certain charm..

As I’ve said before, if the original finish isn’t salvageable, and the bike has little collector value, I don’t see the need to spend a fortune on it trying to replicate the exact factory finish and parts. Rather, there’s a chance to do something different, hopefully without making it look like some garish ‘fixie’ project !

This was a good quality machine in its day, with BSA fittings all round. Unfortunately, the chainwheel teeth were badly ‘shark-toothed’, so I had to use a Williams B100, perhaps until a good BSA turns up.

this particular bsa / eadie coaster was not from this bike, though it may have been what was once fitted.

The painting has taken a while because I wasn’t sure how much to leave bare, as I wanted the rustic ( rusty ! ) look, rather than an all shiny finish. I used Langridge Rust Base paint for the rusty bits and left the top tube and chain stays bare and satin clear coated. The Indian Red colour was used to match the painted guards ( that came from another bike ) to this frame. Stars on the steering head and fork crown are a highlight of these frames, so they have been emphasised in white and red. The textured rust paint uses an activator, which is applied after drying, to give the effect of heavy surface rust.

seat stay detail

The front hub is a Bayliss Wiley 32H and the rear is an Eadie Coaster 40H. Rims are from Vicki’s old 60s Speedwell, donated when she fitted a 3-speed 700c set. The original rims would likely have been Westwood style, but these at least have their original paint and patina.  

I think I prefer these forks..

I also had to swap the forks for ones from a younger bike because the fork threads were too worn, causing the head set to continually loosen. This can sometimes be solved by having a frame builder apply a thin layer of brazing to the steerer, then re-cutting the threads.

I had to change these forks to the painted ones above.

I used the Indian red colour, so I could mix parts salvaged from a later Malvern Star, e.g. the mudguards. These bikes changed very little over the decades, and the newer forks, guards, etc. are more or less identical to the older ones.

The upturned drop handle bars are typical of the ‘all purpose’ roadsters of the time – some were sold this way, others aligned so by their owners.

The Eadie coaster hub brakes only gently, but is generally adequate for the speeds at which this bike will be ridden. The 44 x 18T gearing is good for the flat, but not on steeper hills, especially given the large diameter wheels and the overall weight.

14 more years and the frame will be an antique..

The bike rides smoothly, turns slowly, and handles rough roads with stability, as would be expected from a roadster design. It’s very different from what I usually ride, and is all the more fun for being so.

Happy Re-cycling !    

Loop Frame Speedwell Popular – 1969 :

This bike had some rusty components, but was otherwise in good condition. I needed to find some replacement chromed steel rims and less corroded handle bars, but most other parts were recoverable. The bottom bracket was excellent and the steering head needed a new crown race and lower bearings only.

ex-hard rubbish, and worth saving.

I love the simplicity of the old Populars, with no cables to clutter the lines they are a comfortable and good looking upright ride, so long as there are no steep hills to be climbed.

the classic logo, used for many years

For most of their era they had 28 x 1 & 3/8” wheels, and as far as I know, there is only one currently ( 37-642 ) available all black tyre, made by Vee Rubber in Thailand. However, this one has 27” wheels, yet retains most features of the older populars.

36H + letter M ( Sachs code for 1969 ).

The cottered cranks are Austral brand, made in Japan, and the rear hub is a Sachs Komet Super 161. The front wheel was not original, having a later JoyTech hub, and has been replaced by an Araya with Sturmey Archer hub.

The code on the Sachs hub shell 36M indicates 36 spoke holes and the ‘M’ dates it to 1969. I re-laced it to a better rim and new spokes, following overhaul. The Sachs coaster can lock the wheel if stamped on, but is only a gentle stopper with normal use.

note the hook for a skirt guard, but there are no holes in the mud guards..

The serial number layout has changed since the mid ‘60s, so it’s hard to date from the frame number on the rear of the chain stay. On the fork, however, there is a faint E9 code that I’m guessing also confirms a 1969 build.

I satin clear-coated the decals as they will deteriorate badly otherwise.

I’ve rubbed back the chain guard which had been over painted by a previous owner, showing some original colour underneath. I like to leave some of the old paint in these cases as it adds to the history. 

note ‘speedwell’ on adjustable race.

Step through bikes don’t seem to be valued much from a collector’s viewpoint, which is a shame, as they are surely as valid as any other type of roadster, and the loop frame models do have a dignity all of their own.  

why not a classic ?

I’ve also been informed by a Malvern Star expert that this cycle would likely have been made in their factory by this time ( as Speedwell had been sold in 1965 to the owner of Malvern Star – General Accessories – from the 1958 sale of M.S. by Bruce Small ). If it was Australian made it must have been one of the last of the home built roadsters.

Weinmann 730 fits well – no front brake originally.

I’ve added a Weinmann 730 front brake and Weinmann lever for a bit more safety in modern traffic. The white saddle is not original, but suits the bike, I think. Better would be a Brooks B18, but this bike will likely be sold, so that’s one for the next owner.

decal details…

Happy Re-Cycling !  

After the Chuck-Out :

There comes a period of consolidation, to reduce clutter and work out what we have. Hard rubbish days can yield everything from wheels to complete bikes, and sometimes to get a bike going again it’s necessary to mix and match. This is not so much about perfect originality, more about just keeping an old banger functional and useful.

this one was recently built up from a discarded frame-set and mostly re-cycled parts.

If a wheel is complete and fairly straight, it can be enough to overhaul the hub and perhaps true it, but this is usually the exception. Mostly there are corroded rims, rusty spokes, old dry grease, and pitted cones to deal with. It can be a dirty job, but the price is right..

some of the usual mess…sigh.

Here are some recently acquired hubs following overhaul : Sansin,  Shimano, Suzue, JoyTech ( Jou Yu ) and a couple of SunTours, made by Sansin ( Sunshine ).

sansin, shimano 7sp, suzue, joytech, suntour pair ( sansin )

Interestingly, the ’84 JoyTech rear hub has sealed bearings, something I haven’t seen in this vintage before. It needed a good flush out, made difficult by the enclosed design, but seems to be in useable condition.

this cleaned up F & S Komet Super 161 coaster hub belongs to the gold speedwell popular in the previous post

Some of the hubs will need replacement cones – I use either new generic or second hand cones, but only the latter if they have absolutely no pitting.

Bear in mind that many original cones for basic hubs won’t be easily available now. In the pic below, I’ve turned any worn cones inside out on the axle, to remind me they need replacing, now that the hubs are cleaned.

left : velo 32H, joy tech 36H, speedwell 32H – right : velo fixed/free 40H, dhb hi-flange 32H

New ball bearings are also a must, unless everything inside is still shiny bright after cleaning. If the cone was pitted, then likely the bearings will be too. 

If the hub shell races are pitted, I don’t bother with the hub, but it can still be worth keeping the axle, seals, washers, and nuts.

Because the width of cones can vary a lot, different width locknuts can be used to tailor the “ over locknut dimension “ to better fit the fork or dropout width, when non-original cones are used. I always salvage any hub parts in good condition, and keep them organised, ready for use, in separate containers for 5/16” nutted fronts, 3/8” nutted rears, M9 Q.R. fronts, M10 Q.R. rears, 3-speeds, etc.. 

this is my ‘old bike’ 5/16″ nutted front hub ‘box-of-tricks’..

When the substitute cones are smaller in outside diameter than the originals, there can be a gap to the seal that may let in grit. Sometimes using a different seal can work, but they can vary in outside diameter too, and often won’t fit the hub. If there’s no alternative, I might use rubber o-rings around the outer cone, to help seal the gap.  

an absolutely brilliant bike part recycling tool !

This Ryobi cordless rotary tool (above) is great for hubs and skewers, when used with the tiny Dremel wire brushes ( and later the soft polishing wheels, with Autosol ). It will reach into most tight spots and is also useful when reviving brake callipers, down-tube shifters, derailleurs, headsets, etc., to selectively remove surface oxidation. 

The little cutting wheels are useful for shortening small replacement bolts, e.g. mudguard stay bolts, that are too long.

Happy Re-Cycling ! 

Some More Re-Cycling :

Ahh, chuck-out season again, and lots of little surprises – like the old flared head tube of a Malvern Star that’s been hacksawed badly to fit newer removable cups … a pity it wasn’t cut straight ! The top cup is seriously loose and as there is no dirt under the repainted guards, I’m thinking that the refurb. was a total failure and the bike unridden since. 

So long, 1943..

That’s a bit sad really, because the 3M prefix serial number dates it to Melbourne, 1943 …

Nevertheless, there is a good chrome ( later ) 28” front wheel here with 32 spokes, and some spare mud-guards at least .. it’s a shame about the bodged overhaul though, as I would have had the steering parts for the original headset style. The rear hub has a Perry brake arm on a Favourit hub, suggesting a change over from a 40H to 36H hub shell at the time of ‘renovation’. A lot of trouble, for naught…

Completely ruined …

A Shogun, a 26” Trail Breaker I think, where the previous owner has put adhesive tape over the decals, perhaps to prevent theft ? Now it is almost impossible to remove without damage – sheesh ! … 

No sticky stuff on bikes, please !

Another problem with a Shogun Katana Exage 300 model was the left Tracer brand crank having not a single thread to remove it with – and, it appears to have been fitted this way at the factory !!These early 90s Shogun ‘Templite’ 4130 frames are heavy, they don’t have the nice pantographed seat stay caps and, to this re-cyclist, they aren’t a patch on the older 80s Tange Infinity frames. 

Factory fitted crank, with no removal thread ?? Shame, Shogun, shame.

I’m contemplating whether getting a small automotive gear puller would be worthwhile to try and remove the crank. Possibly – but only if it were an Infinity frame. Never mind, I have a smaller brother frame that came with it, and that one may take the other parts.

This one shows promise…

On the positive side, an unrestored gold Speedwell Popular loop frame shows promise, but it needs a lot of rust removal and/or some better chrome replacement parts. I’m not normally that keen on the post mid 60s Speedwells, but something about this one really appeals, as it still has the box lining and the typical cut-aways in the head and fork lugs.

Not in too bad a shape

This model seems to mark the change from 37-642  (28”)  to  32-630 (27”) wheels, which allows for a better choice of rims and tyres, at this point in time.

What’s not to like ? Some rust attended to..

It came with a 36H Sachs Komet Super 161 coaster. I’m thinking around very late 60s or very early 70s. I will post some more of this one, as the work proceeds.

See Ya !

A 1987 Raleigh Granada 10 :

It’s always a bit disappointing to see a decent bike let down this much .. but the best side of it being unloved is the good value, as the frame and fork are intact and straight, and everything else can be either cleaned, repaired or replaced. The original guards and rack weren’t on it when acquired.

pretty tragic…note the brake levers !

The Raleigh Granada 10 was something of a throwback for a 1987 model, with ‘only’ ten speeds ( 2 x 5 ) and centre pull brakes, also, the Sachs-Huret ‘Rival’ derailleurs were hardly state of the art, even back then. However, a Reynolds 531 main frame and fork still make it a very worthwhile project. The rear dropout width is 125mm, and would have accepted a 6 or 7 speed freewheel, so I’m not sure why only 5 speeds were fitted, other than for cost reasons..

ugly plastic shifters, and some weather exposure all round..

The Granada was middle of the range of the touring models from the ‘lightweight’ department of Raleigh in Nottingham, a separate division from their main factory.

Here are the relevant details from their ’87 catalogue :

a good reference.

the royal and randonneur were the truer tourers..

The main issues with this particular example were mismatched and non-original parts – i.e. both the wheels, a missing front centre-pull caliper, non-original rear derailleur ( but that Suntour short cage Sprint R.D. was their second top road model ! ), slight damage to the seat tube top from fitting the incorrect seat post, and plenty of surface rust. For some unknown reason, the better quality steel tubes seem to rust like blazes when neglected.

The double chain set, bars, and stem were the original Sakae equipment, but I wanted to fit wider bars, and also a triple chain set to gear it lower than just 36 x 28T. I had a spare Weinmann-Raleigh 610 centre pull caliper that I used to match the rear one.  

There are some other non-standard parts added, to make it a nicer all-round rider. The wheels and rear derailleur were past swaps from a race-style bike so these were replaced, and the removed Suntour R.D. and hubs will be overhauled for future use. 

Originality wasn’t critical, as this bike will be a user, ( it’s a bit rough ), and I’ve salvaged some parts from elsewhere, while some others are new.

I did fit a newer lower headset assembly, with better sealing.

Some of these parts are :

-Suntour ( ratcheted friction ) power shifters to replace the ugly looking plastic Sachs-Huret ones  ( though those probably would have worked just as well, and were also ratcheted ).

-Weinmann Provence, 36H double wall eyeleted rims, salvaged from an Avanti hybrid ( to suit 28-38mm tyres ).

-Shimano FH/HB-1050, recycled 105 hubset, with Sunrace 7speed 13-28T ‘hyper glide copy’ freewheel. 

these shifters look much nicer to me..

-Suntour VxGT rear derailleur, brought back from the dead ( the previously fitted Sprint is only rated for a 24T cluster, the VxGT for 34T  ).

-Salvaged 3TTT Forma ergo bars and Syntace threadless stem with Deda 1” quill adapter. 

-Used Sugino VP130 triple chainset with 46/38/26T T.A. rings.

..the Sachs-Huret f.d. works very well on these 3 rings

-Shimano BB UN-55 cartridge bottom bracket ( new ).

-Dia-Compe non-aero Q.R. brake levers (new).

-New SRAM PC830 chain

-Re-used Fizik Superlight bar tape.

-Soma cable stay support ( for the damaged rear braze-on hanger ).

the cable hanger stop was split, so I used this Soma hanger with it, just in case.

-SMP Composit saddle.

-Continental GranSport Extra 32mm tyres ( new ). These ride well, and are affordable too. 

The existing Sachs-Huret front derailleur works quite well on a triple, even though it doesn’t have the deep inner cage of full-on triple changers. Probably the mild 20T range helps here.

The old 80s VxGT rear derailleur changes so smoothly, it is an excellent non-index derailleur.

The frame accepts 32mm tyres without much fuss, and it is a supple frame, rather than a stiff one.

a silky drivetrain..I need to find a step-down ferrule for the rear derailleur cable though.

This drivetrain is very smooth, and so is the overall ride, even with the un-padded SMP Composit saddle ! 

Taa-daa ! I’m very pleased with how it rides.

And, for those that disagree with the threadless  stem and ergo bars, well, I can change them back anytime – if I want to ..

Happy Re-Cycling !

A Recycled Miyata Sportrunner – early 1990s :

As far as my recycling goes, I would say that not every old bike is worth fixing, and some are only useful for a few of their parts, perhaps in order to keep a better machine on the road.

So called ‘women’s bikes’ have little value in collector’s markets, but as far as practical riders go, they can be very useful. Another bonus is that they often have very little wear, or abuse, when compared with diamond framed so-called ‘mens’ models.

Such was this Miyata, around 30 years old, a basic but decent runabout, with a solid Cro-moly frame, forged dropouts, 3 x 7-speed Shimano 200GS drive train and 26” (559) alloy Araya wheels. It is easy to ride and has a typically low seat height, which is great for smaller riders.

bread-and-butter, yes, but well made. 

It cost me only $15, and, with at least a good full day’s work all up, including a couple of decent used tyres, a broken spoke replaced, wheels trued, a full bearing service, new brake pads, and a tidy up ( de-rust, lube, clean and polish ) it will ride almost as a new bike.

the shifters are basic, but they still had the original protective plastic wrap on the faceplates !

Though it came with a reasonable aftermarket Serfas saddle, I’ve added the wider sprung Brooks B66 used saddle for my wife to test ride the bike with, and she will see if she wants to keep it.

When buying used bikes like this, one doesn’t always know what hidden mechanical surprises one might find, but it certainly helps to try and quickly assess what the likely issues will be, to have an idea what expenses may lie ahead.

For example, the caged bottom bracket bearings were later found to need replacement due to water ingress ( as is often the case ), but luckily the cups and spindle were not pitted, and all the other bearings were good.

7-speed free-hub, and a decent range

It could now be sold at a profit ( excluding the Brooks ), but I still wouldn’t be making a fortune on it, and it’s worth considering that I have the appropriate tools and spares on hand to make the job easier, and all those things cost money too !

canti brakes work well, but can be fiddly to adjust..

Nevertheless, it’s still satisfying to save a decent bike like this from the scrap heap and make it presentable again, which is a big part of the reason I like to re-cycle bikes !

See Ya !

The Speedwell Diaries – Project … Next :

It’s another Special Sports 3-speed, the green frame late 50s, with the ‘fancier than usual’ head lugs. 

I have added the steel mudguards, as the bike came to me came as a frame-set without them, and I think these bikes look best in their full regalia.  It’s getting harder to find decent guards though. Back in the day, some of them would have been scrapped because they didn’t look ‘sporty’ enough for their owners. Others might have simply deteriorated and been removed in a so-called ‘spruce-up’, along with the dreaded house paint ‘refurb’ job…

Also, I’m not sure if all Special Sports came fitted with guards. These spare guards were white, so I painted them the matt cream colour to better blend with the cream coloured decorative ‘wing’ details on the frame. 

I assume the cream colour on the frame was originally white, but the varnish has yellowed, and the faded green would have been a bright metallic emerald as well. Unlike the previous blue bike, I think this one looks better with the yellowing varnish intact. To my eyes, the addition of the mud guards give the bike more of an all-weather English-style  ‘sports roadster’ look.

Also getting harder to find are the 32 hole steel front rims in good condition, so for the moment I’ve used a 36 hole, with a good looking but slightly ‘period incorrect’ steel Shimano hub. The rear is a 40H Sturmey Archer AW, that I recently overhauled and fitted to a good rim. Both rims take either 27” x  1 & 1/4” ( 32-630 ) or 1 & 3/8” ( 37-630 ) tyres. I’ve decided on the larger size for a more comfortable ride. The tyres are new Duro, and seem quite suited to a cruiser such as this.

I try and aim for ride comfort for my Speedwells, so I sometimes have to compromise a little from what would be  the exact original specs. A case in point are the narrow steel deep-drop handle bars of the period, that I find uncomfortable on longer rides. 

The wider steel randonneur style bars don’t look too out of place and have gained me a little height. I’ve also fitted a taller and shorter stem than normal, for the same reason.

I find the usual 54cm seat tubed Speedwells can be a bit uncomfortable with drop bars, unless I use a tall stem. This is simply because they are on the small side, height-wise, for myself. The long top tubes are usually around 59cm and perhaps the special sports were more designed for upright riding, despite some having been fitted with drop bars. 

Apart from the front wheel and brake levers, the parts are as period correct ( or correct looking ) as I could reasonably get them, including the Williams B100 chain set, though I’ve downsized from the usual 46T to 44T, running a 19T rear sprocket rather than 18T to slightly gear down to about a 63 inch normal gear. This will help a bit, given the overall weight of the nearly ‘all-steel’ bike. 

Brakes are Monitor Venturas and pedals are Phillips ‘Apollo’.

Finally, I added some ( not strictly period ) re-cycled Brooks leather bar tape, wrapped short for extra thickness.

Happy Re-Cycling ! 

Something Different – A Merida Road 909 Magnesium :

Sometimes a project comes along that begs to be followed through, while some others sit around waiting. This striking acid green vs. midnight blue c. 2003 beast had me intrigued – as I’d never seen one, before now. 

the beast, as finished..

There was a cast magnesium frame being made by Kirk Precision some time ago, at least until some magnesium dust ignited and the resulting fire destroyed the factory…

c. 1987 Kirk Precision Magnesium .. die cast, not tubing. ( not my photo ).

It’s quite light for a metal frame, and also seems very rigid. Corrosion was limited to a few surface bubbles here and there, and some snail-trails under the down tube, while there are no visible cracks anywhere. I assumed that fatigue and corrosion would have been the two issues with a 17 year old magnesium frame, so I decided to chance a refurbishment, though the forums say this model can often crack around the seat cluster – so we shall see !

it’s different to my usual rides, that’s for sure.

From research, the Road 909 was fitted with OE Shimano Dura-Ace components, although this example was fitted with a 9-speed Ultegra 6500 series group set. Fine, I’d always thought the 6500 crankset was one of the best looking modern cranks made. The splined Octalink 109.5mm bottom bracket was a Dura-Ace 7700, however, and while it initially appeared to be a sealed unit, it is actually adjustable and serviceable. 

 Is it Campagmano, or Shimolo ? These are the only cranks I have that aren’t either, cottered or square taper !!

The bottom bracket shell itself has some kind of metal ( aluminium ? ) sleeve insert, presumably to protect the magnesium.

However, while the BB was still in the frame, it had spun very roughly, so I had ordered a sealed 105 replacement before realising the original was merely adjusted too tight. Should have done my research, but I now have a spare !

Also included with the acquisition was a lone Mavic Cosmos front wheel, a broken front derailleur, Ultegra 6500 callipers, a Kalloy 27.2mm aero seat post, and 3T ergo bars on a BBB stem.The STI shifters seemed to work but were really tatty. The seat tube has a plastic liner for the 27.2mm post, again, I assume, to keep the post from damaging or corroding the magnesium seat tube.

 

a problem solved ..

Problem number one was a broken derailleur hanger, and being somewhat unfamiliar with these new-fangled 21st century machines, I had no previous idea how many different types of hanger there are, seemingly one for every model of bicycle. After some considerable searching, I came across one for a Merida Magnesium MTB, which looked identical to the remnants of the Road 909’s, except it was black.

Better made than the original .. for a price ! Hanger did not include the outer plate bit. 

I assumed the dropouts would be the same between the road and MTB Merida models, to save cost, and no-one seemed to sell a silver version. I think I was lucky to find one at all for a bike this ‘old’ !

Pilo Machining in Israel make the model D106 hanger, and all up, I had to pay a fair bit to import one from the UK – and the postage cost more than the part ! Nevertheless, the bike won’t work without it, even as a single speed, so I bit the bullet. 

Although the hanger appeared a good match, it was an anxious wait for the ‘express post’ to arrive two weeks later – well, that’s Covid 19 for you. Not too bad, under the circumstances…the hanger is very well made, and it fitted !

Problem number two was the aluminium and carbon fork, where the clear coat was peeling and yellowing from UV exposure, however a very careful inspection showed no structural damage, so I gently wet sanded off the surface coat and re-applied a clear coat. Not a perfect job aesthetically, but it looks much better.

New bikes now tend to have have a more integrated look between the fork and head tube than the bikes of this era did though.

sharing the wheels with my only other early 2000’s non-ferrous framed bike..

This frame also has a reputation for ride stiffness, according to the forums, so it will be interesting to compare the ride to the aluminium and carbon Scattante ( above ) from a few posts back. It’s not too jarring, but as with aluminium, it is chattery on rough surfaces compared with good steel. Thick bar tape helps on the front, along with the carbon fork. The tyres are 25mm, and I run them only at around 80psi or so.

veloce 10v r.d. medium cage = 30T max. – this is only 26T at the moment though.

I decided to fit Campagnolo 10 speed Veloce shifters and derailleurs so that I could share the same wheels with the Scattante, and also because they seem very well priced, and roughly suit the period of this frame. I kept the cranks and fitted new rings ( 49 / 39T ) as the Ultegra rings were worn. I had a set of Potenza brakes on another bike which I’ve swapped over to this one, they are very fine brakes and also well priced for their level of performance.

and potenza calipers.

This Merida is 8.5kg complete, without pedals, pretty good for an older metal framed bike with a lower priced group set. I weighed the frame alone at around 1.5kg which seems reasonable for a non-carbon frame, though it’s not at all ground-breaking these days. The Dura-Ace versions were less than 8kg complete, but that’s well beyond my budget, or my needs.

raring to go..

Happy Re-Cycling ! 

The Speedwell Diaries – A 1959 Special Sports, Part 2 :

oh yes, remember this ?

Now it’s all in bits, it’s time to look at the wheels, and they have seen better days, cosmetically at least. The front wheel has a German made Durex 55 hub, laced 3-cross to a 32H steel rim. The hub was in good condition inside, despite the semi-dry grease, and was cleaned and re-assembled with no trouble.

front wheel, cleaning up..

The rear wheel has lost a lot more chrome from the brake track and has many rust patches, but is generally straight. The 40H Sturmey Archer AW was very dry inside, but otherwise good, apart from a pitted outer cone, which I replaced. The wheel was laced in a 4-cross spoke pattern, and both wheels typically have oval steel washers under the spoke nipples. 

and the rear..

If you are going to rebuild the wheels with the original spokes then it’s advisable to make a note of the spoke cross patterns for later ! 

before cleaning..3 speed hub

Because of the extensive rust, I have dismantled the wheels completely, as I find it the best way to give them a really good de-rust and clean. The very rusty spoke washers were soaked in rust converter, rinsed and dried, then soaked in linseed oil. The old fashioned cloth rim strips in these wheels are notorious for attracting moisture and rusting out the inner rim..

ready to re-assemble… and just add oil.

The spokes were cleaned as well, with steel wool and oil. I also find the hubs easier to overhaul and clean this way, without the wheel, and then you also know that all the spoke nipples will be free to turn when truing time comes. 

 

basic tools plus a jig … posing shot only, after tyres were fitted

Naturally, all this takes more time, and a close fitting spoke key is essential. 

I used a Park Tool 4-sided master key and plenty of penetrant in the hope that the nipples don’t get rounded off. The black coded key is the best fit for these nipples. I’ve rebuilt quite a few sets of these old wheels, sometimes with new spokes, others by re-cycling spokes. With care, the old spokes can still be reliable if the threads and nipples are good. I use linseed oil on the threads when assembling.  

these cleaned up well..the pedals are previously overhauled ones, to save time. New cotter pins too.

Like most old 3-speeds, the Speedwells are slightly over-geared, with the standard 46 x 18T giving around 69 gear inches in normal ( 2nd ) gear. Somewhere between a 19 – 22T sprocket should work better for a cruiser bike, around even mildly hilly places, otherwise you may end up with a high gear that is seldom used and a low that’s too high !

I will keep the original cables, as they add to the authenticity, they aren’t frayed, and there’s no reason they won’t work well, if cleaned up and oiled. I used 3-in-1 brand lock lubricant which works well for old cables ( among other things ), it is designed for lock mechanisms and so should leave minimal residue, and it flows like penetrant too.

this is about as good as they are going to get !

If you equate ‘hours’ with ‘dollars’, then all this may be seen as doing things the hard way, but I treat this kind of wheel re-construction as a sort of active meditation, and it’s all practice for future wheel building…you know, your 10,000 hours and all that ! 

To be continued..    

The Speedwell Diaries – A 1959 Special Sports :

As usual – pretty sad..

A complete and mostly original Special Sports is not that common these days, but they occasionally turn up for sale, like this one. Somewhat sadly, they are so often neglected, and the beautiful finish has been left to decay. At least it is straight, and it has everything original except saddle, grips and no mud guards.

The Williams cranks are dated AZ = 1959, the chainwheel AY = 1958 and the Sturmey Archer AW hub is Jan. ’59.

The challenge with these, for me, is to make the bike still look well used, but also cared for, by removing the signs of neglect while keeping the ‘good’ patina ( or ‘beausage’ as Grant Petersen would say ).

Also, I always attend to any mechanical defects such as pitted hub cones or BB spindles as they will spoil the riding enjoyment, which really is half the fun of owning these old cruisers.

rust never sleeps

I admire the efforts of those who can restore bikes to ‘showroom’, but really, can the high cost be justified, or even afforded, on such a bread and butter model ? Perhaps only for a particularly sentimental family bike..

Also, with the Special Sports, unless one has the exact replica decals and is able to match the box lining and the semi-transparent candy paint finish ( which is doubtful ), it still won’t look as authentic as a used original with character.

In many cases, a careful dismantle and clean can more than make up for any defects in the finish, and having a little stash of parts to fall back on can help sometimes, for when an individual part is just too far gone, like the badly rusted handle bars on this one.

I would not use these very rusty bars unless I had to. The brake levers were bent also. Trigger shifter is fine though..

So, we will have a look, and see what we can do, with what we have..

oh, the things I have to deal with .. rust’n’dust – I’m not so fussed..

The first thing is to apply penetrant to all the nuts and threads, and try to move each one a turn or two, as this will give an early idea as to what has seized up. Believe me, there is always something frozen solid on a 60 year old bicycle that probably hasn’t been serviced for decades.

Unusual BB shell for this model – no oiler cap or even a typical vestigial one. The BB was in pretty good shape, I replaced only one cup, and all new bearings. Spindle was fine.

Likely problems here would be the pedal threads, the cotter pins, seat post and stem, and the bottom bracket cups. Luckily, being all steel, the Speedwells don’t suffer from galvanic corrosion like newer bikes with steel and aluminium interfaces.

I try to dismantle in a logical way, as some things are easier to do before others, e.g. leaving the seat on helps in removing the seat post, leaving the wheels and bars on helps in removing the stem and cranks by allowing better access or leverage.

In the case of the Phillips Apollo pedals, I fully dismantle the pedal while it’s still on the crank so I can put the crank in a vice and get a proper leverage on the narrow axle flats. Multi grips will get the end cover unscrewed, as a 14mm spanner often slips off the cap.

very heavy cotter pin press a.k.a. 100mm vice !

Thankfully, the only difficulty with this bike was the frozen seat post bolt, as the round head on one side kept turning – a small hacksaw soon put paid to that…

these decals are really vulnerable..also, note the brilliant white paint underneath and yellow varnish on the rest.

Now the frame can be worked on with fine steel wool and light oil, to remove rust and the yellowed varnish coat. It’s important to not touch the decals on the fork, top tube and seat tube, as even a gentle rub can cause them to flake off… I clear coat these a.s.a.p. Too much rubbing will take the paint right off as well, so you need to know when to stop.

much better, no ?

 

compare with the earlier pic. above – A battery powered rotary tool with its tiny wire brush fitting is great for small rusted parts…

To be continued…